Thursday, December 22, 2011
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
While making a rectangular window pattern bowl I accidentally broke off a drill bit at the center line on the short side. After salvaging the bowl, completing it and applying the finish it still showed the defect of the broken drill. I then decided to cut the bowl in half and mount the half onto a fretwork backboard and make it a wall hanging. Here is the end result.
Monday, May 9, 2011
Saturday, May 7, 2011
How to Take
“STEREO PAIR PICTURES”
for 3D viewing
A set of “stereo pair pictures” consists of two NEARLY identical photos. One will represent the RIGHT eye view and the other will represent the LEFT eye view. Because these two photos are not taken simultaneously the subject matter should be stationary. Landscapes and still life subjects work best.
When taking the two photos there are only a few things to take into consideration. There are basically 2 types of viewing techniques. They are convergent and divergent. Convergent is also know as cross eye viewing and divergent is where you will need to focus your eyes out beyond the photos.
1. First consideration is how far are you from the nearest object in the field of view. This distance will dictate the distance between the vantage points for taking the two photos. For instance; if the nearest object is within 10 feet then the distance between the two vantage points should only be about 3-1/4 inches. (The distance between your eyes) The further away the nearest object is, the further you can move left or right for the second photo. I have actually moved up to 25 feet for a distant scenery view. (This is called a hyper stereo pair).
2. Taking the first photo: Frame the picture the way that you want it. For most of my first photos I stand square to the subject. Then I shift my weight to my right foot. I then take the first photo. It will represent the right eye view.
When you take the first photo take special note of certain elements in the camera frame.
A. The left and right edges of the image.
B. The top and bottom image lines
relative to the line of the camera frame.
C. The very center object.
3.Taking the second photo: Move RIGHT or LEFT an amount you think is right for the distance to the subject. For most of my photos that means shifting my weight from my right foot to my left foot.
Before taking the second photo be sure to re-establish the first image as identical as possible. Check the left and right boarders as well as the top and bottom image lines and the very center object. The most important of these elements are the center object and the top or bottom image lines relative to the camera frame. When you are satisfied with the framing go ahead and take the second picture. Now you have a stereo pair.
Getting the pictures ready for viewing
The first step is to review the two photos and determine which eye each photo represents. Here is how you do that. Examine the photo to locate two elements close together, one that is in the foreground and one that is in the background. In the example below those elements are the hump on the back of the bison and the tree. If the background element is to the right of the foreground element then the gap between the two will be larger for the photo that represents the right eye view. If the background element is to the left of the foreground element then the gap between the two will be larger for the photo that represents the left eye view.
The second step is to decide if the presentation is to be for convergent or divergent viewing. The sample here is presented for convergent viewing. (see the previous posting for how to view 3D stereo pairs).
Right Eye View Left Eye View
An interest in taking 3D Stereo Pairs will
increase your environmental awareness.
Thursday, April 28, 2011
This stereo pair is presented for cross eye viewing. There are several different ways for the first time viewer to achieve a stereo image. I will try to explain each of these. At least one technique should work for you. There is one prerequisit and that is that you need to have two good eyes. The bottom line is that you will be required to have your right eye look at the left image while your left eye is looking at the right image. This concept is actually easier than it sounds.
Go to the 3D photography page to see more images.
This technique is the goal that you will want to finally achieve if you need to go through the learning process of the other techniques. If you are one of those characters that used to voluntarily cross your eyes just for fun then this technique should be relatively easy for you.
Focus your eyes on the space between the two photos. Slowly start to cross your eyes. Notice that there is a third image that starts to grow between the other two. Continue crossing your eyes until the center image is the same size as the other two. You will now have 3 images. The center image should be fully 3 dimensional.
Position your face about 24 inches from the screen. Place your thumb between your face and the screen with the top of your thumb at the bottom of the pictures and in line with the space between the pictures. Focus your eyes on your thumb. Think about the picture. Without changing your focus from your thumb you should be aware of three images. Slowly move your thumb back and forth between your face and the screen until the middle image is very close to the same size as the other two images. In some cases it may be necessary for you to slightly tilt your head side to side so that the bottom edges of all three images line up. Your challenge now is to shift your focus from your thumb to the center image which will be fully three dimensionable if done correctly. Most people need to practice this many times. Shifting the focus is a challenge. Don't get discouraged. You can do it and the final result will be amazing and exciting.
Some people will find making a training aid window helpful. Take a piece of printer paper, fold it in half one direction and then fold it again in half the other direction. Now cut off the folded corner by 1/2 inch each direction. Unfold the paper and you should have about a 1 inch square hole in the center. (After reading the rest of these instructions scroll the image pair to the center of the screen.) Position your face about 24 inches from the screen. Place the paper with the square hole in it about 10 to 12 inches in front of your face. Close your left eye and position the paper so that you can see only the left image through the hole. Now while holding the paper steady in that position, open your left eye and close your right eye. If you see only the right image through the hole that is good. But if you don't then you need to reposition the paper so that you see only the right image through the hole. The repositioning of the paper should be done by moving the paper back and forth between your face and the screen. NOT LEFT AND RIGHT. Continue alternating between viewing through the hole with your left and right eyes one at a time until you achieve the position of the paper such that both eyes see their respective images without moving the paper. Now open both eyes and look at the image in the square hole. It should be fully 3 dimensionable. You may need to rock your head a little bit side to side to find the perfect focus. You are actually looking cross eyed through the hole in the paper with the crossing point being at the paper.
Here is another image to try.
Go to the 3D photography page to see more images.